Torres del Paine, Chile: Nov 21 - Nov 26

Torres del Paine might be described quite simply as the Overland Track (in Tasmania) meets Milford Sound (New Zealand) ...... on steroids! There are many similarities with the Cradle Mtn/Lake St Clair area, I think. The dominant Lenga Beech (Nothofagus pumilio) is closely related to the Beeches of Tasmania and Victoria. Paine receives upwards of 200,000 visitors per year and is a mecca for hiking in South America. I (Tristan) speak for us both I think when I saw words aren´t enough to describe the majesty scenery of this place. An amazing way to kick off the trip and super-highly recommended.

These spectacular mountains are separate from the Andes and the park covers 181000 hectares including Patagonian steppe and lush Beech forests. Wildlife was noticably absent, aside from birds. In fact in 6 days there (except for the drive in) we saw only one mouse-like creature that wasn´t a bird. No other mammals or reptiles. The flora was also not very diverse - seemingly only one tree species and one large shrub, with more diversity in the ground layer and herbaceous and aquatic species.

DAY 1 : Picked up from Puerto Natales we thundered up the highway, turned onto a dirt road and started to wind through scenic hills filled with Guanacos. We also spotted a family of Lesser Rheas. Columns of spiralling Andean Condors rode the thermals - I expected them to be larger, maybe that is another species but these ones, while large, weren´t larger than a Wedge-tail. Also present were Black-chested Buzzard Eagles. We arrived at Adminstracion, orientated ourselves and set off for Refugio Pehoe and the gigantic mountain it sits under. We walked the first 4hrs or so fine, observing a strange hawk or something hopping around after the tribes of ibis, cashing in on disturbed insects. We also saw a guanaco carcass. With a few hours to go the cold sideways rain began. We got soaked. It made our first view of expansive, aqua-blue Lake Pehoe not as magical as it might have been. With our packed the heaviest they would be, we trudged on around the lake for a few more hours despite being assured by another excursionista that it was just around the corner. We finally arrived underneath Paine Grande at the refugio (hostel), set camp and then met a couple of Aussies who were on the same flight from Sydney to Buenos Aires! Apparently the plane we were on was worse than I thought - during landing a piece of the plastic ceiling lining fell off and landed into someone´s lap. Hmmm.

DAY 2 : Lago Pehoe to Refugio Gray : Better weather, but still cloudy, we slowly climbed into undulating rocky terrain on the side of the mountains - as with most of the trekking here the going was tough and challenging with a 20kg pack, but do-able. We saw a Chilean Flicker. After hiking through low Beech forest we came upon a picturesque lake, elevated amongst the rocky hills. Between admiring that and the mountain we were rather satisfied already for the day, despite the spires of the Torres being tantalisingly hidden in cloud for most of the day. However when we reached the top of our first climb we saw the amazing Lake Grey, a gigantic grey-blue lake running alongside the mountain range, and on its other side beautiful mountains swathed in Beech forest and snow. After continuing further on to the main rise we came to an incredibly windy mirador (lookout) and saw the lake in its entirety, complete with floating icebergs and being fed by the gigantic Glacier Grey. After soaking it in we finished our hike exhausted and cold at forested Refugio Grey on the shores of the lake, after hiking through more Beech forest and past gushing creeks and waterfalls. We took a lot of photos on this day, not sure if the weather would improve to get better views of the Torres. Despite not being in the direct sun for much of the day, we both got quite sunburnt due to the complete lack of ozone layer here.

DAY 3 : Lake Grey - Glacier Grey - Lake Pehoe: We had planned a much larger walk for this day but decided instead to day walk to the glacier instead. The more exposed forest here was about 6 or 7m high, with older, larger-girthed trees quite rare. The view from the mirador of the glacier was amazing, as you can see from the photo. To the left you can see La isla, which looks like being swallowed by the glacier. Mountain streams and waterfalls were frequent - you can drink all of the water here, even from the lakes. It was icy-cold and re-energising, pure and delicious. After we returned and collected our packs we trekked back to Pehoe in the beautifully clear day. Today we saw a Chilean Hawk, I think. By this time we were quite tired and sore, but pushed on - as we were in site of the refugio at Lake Pehoe we could see a catamaran crossing the lake to arrive at the same place we were going. Michelle said, ¨I´m racing the cat ¨and sped off ahead. Soon after discovering the battle was lost she decided to vent her fury by attacking the nearest rock colony, headbutting one and kneeing and kicking the others. At least she wasn´t keeping her anger inside. Later after calming down I checked to see if everything was OK - the rocks were non-comittal and I didn´t really understand their rapid Spanish anyway.

DAY 4 : Lake Pehoe - Camp Italiano - French Valley: This was a shorter pack-hike by previous standards - as usual we passed through beautiful lake and mountain scenery. I decided to sample the local bushtucker, a Lily-pilly looking fruit which tasted better and grew on a spiky plant everywhere. The Park is most popular in January and February, but still there were many hikers trekking in various capicities (full self-sufficient hikers to credit-card reliant sight seers). After another glorious day we crossed the bridge over the River del Frances and set camp under the Beech at Camp Italiano. Free of our backpack burdens we ascended into the valley. The trek beside the river was fantastic - highlights include the small (ish) Glacier Frances and numerous mini-avalanches heard cracking throughout the evening. We climbed steeply and rock hopped over wobbly rocks through more inspirational Nothofagus forest that reminded me a lot of what I thought Fangorn forest from Lord of the Rings might be like. Ü . After a huge effort Michelle´s injuries from the previous day were starting to take their toll and she turned back. I continued on to Camp Britanico, little more than a few cleared sites in the forest with a few signs and a tarp for shelter. Before getting there I passed a massive slew of rocks from a glacier slide about 150m wide with competely no vegetation. From there I was able to get a preview of the entire Torres from the inside of the Valley. After more climbing and passing a dieback section in the forest I arrived at the snow line and finally the final mirador. The photos of the Torres above are from there. Indescribably awesome place. After that I essentially ran back down the valley to camp, pausing only to watch more avalanches and eat Lily-pillies. Lots of fun.

DAY 5 : Camp Italiano - Refugio Torres : Essentially today was a travel day - we needed to get to our final destination and we both very tired but shouldered our packs and pushed on. It was also the windiest day of our lives. Upon reaching the magnificent Lake Nordenskjold, I decided to get skinny and brave the icy blue water... for about 5 seconds. That was enough. We soon left the Lake´s beach and eventually found Refugio Cuernos and ate lunch. The rest of the afternoon dragged a little but we eventually arrived at our ultimate destination. It was here that I wish our camera battery had not ran out already, for I so wanted to capture the final amazing image of the Park. A set of three large flag-poles marked the Hotel del Torres (not where we stayed), a plush Hilton-like establishment complete with 3d geographical aerial diaramas and swanky bar and yuppies. The only flag present however was the red and white of a 5m x 1m Coca-Cola bandera.

DAY 6 : Relax in the morning and transfer back to Puerto Natales. Second windiest day of our lives.