Sunday, July 11, 2010

Pisac (Saqsaywaman-Tambomachay-Qenqo Ruins, Quello Quello, Kuyo Grande, Qoya): 4/07 - 10/07

On the Sunday I caught a bus towards Cusco and got off at the top of the ridge some 15km from town at the first of a series of six or so sets of ruins like Saqsaywaman (locally pronounced `SexyWoman`), Tambomachay and Qenqo. Some of them were free, most not, but having been driven past them so many times I felt the urge to explore as much as was possible.

The ruins were in traditional Incan style - building blocks and rock structures carved directly out of basalt. The Incans certainly had an intuition into organic architechture and symbolic shapes. The highlight was Saqsaywaman; viewed from afar - huge stone boulders compiled to create a kind of amphitheatre where the tradicional Inti Raymi celebrations were recently held for the Winter Solstice.

Later in the week I watched the Ultra-Extended Edition of ` What the %&/ Do We Know - Down The Rabbit Hole`. I`d seen the theatrical version previously but this 5 hr marathon provided far more in depth interviews, explanations of theories and experiments with physically measuring the effects of focussed consciousness (e.g. meditation). It was very inspirational - the main point I took out of it being that our thoughts and intencions are reality and definitively affect the `outside world` as we call everything that is not measurable and observable as being a `separate` entity to ourselves. Another point being that we dont actually understand the nature of our universe and to judge a certain worldview as being `right`or `wrong` is not entirely smart. Highly recommended - check it yo.

I had had a few ideas for what I had wanted to do this week. I had intended to visit the hot springs at Lares up the valley some 3 1/2 hrs, go to the qocha (or lake in Quechua) system at the back of Pisac and visit the ultra-cheap community dentist in local Qoya. But somehow none of it happened. I went to Qoya clinic but they had no electricity. I went up to the qocha area but got lost and had to return to Pisac. I decided to wait until Fiorela had returned from Lima to go to Lares. Thwartion.

I did however manage to secure more gas for our house. :) That only took 6hrs when it could`ve taken 1. Two times I was given the incorrect 25kg gas bottle for our cocina (stove). So it was three visits to Pisac and a whole day! Thank you universe for providing me with the opportunity to practice the daring extreme sport of Ultimate Patience.

Maggie, my flatmate, is a conessieur of fine cinema. We have had many in-depth and intensely intellectual art-projections/conversations regarding the works of various luminaries of quality film. But throughout our culturally-rich discussions she has repeatedly brought up one name... `Cyclops` (Dir. - Declan O`Brien, 2008). On this night I finally felt ready to experience its cruel beauty through a story of transcendent spirituality. Based on the true story of a misunderstood one-eyed monster from Ancient Roman times, this film-noir classic act/shone to me in a way no other movie has in the past. Don`t miss it. For me it was revelatory - I felt as happy as the hand-clapping guy above.

On the Friday night I went to my second Ayahuasca medicine ceremony with 20 or so other Peruvians, travellers and local-internationals. Although with the same group as last time, the ceremony was led by the work partner of the previous shaman or ayahuascero and as such took on a different feel. I think the medicine brew was a weaker one and I drank slightly less - I had a rewarding, beautiful and blissful experience but felt I didn`t spiritually travel as much nor was I as challenged to stay grounded in the same way as the first time. I `came down` after maybe 2hrs and spent the later hours of the ceremony feeling a little physically uncomfortable because of remaining in one sitting position.

The soundscapes were again a soothing mix of beautiful acoustic guitar, acapellas from not just the guides but participants also, spoken word, recorded music and icarros, ceremonial chants and percussionism from the jungle. Languages included English, Spanish, Quechua and Gaelic. I again found myself smiling all the way through my being which resulted in a supergrin being glued to my face during moments of beautiful singing and playing. I felt very strongly the paradoxical nature of our universe and came to the conclusion that from the moment we are born, most of us start to unlearn the effortless action of pure being - for me its not something we need to worry about or work at but rather a process of allowing energy to be within us.

There was far more `purging` than during my first ceremony - laughing, moaning, crying, but mainly vomitting. Some massive hurls genuinely scared me, exploding from the black silence like Cyclops from the woods. But as per usual all my comrades were well in the end - a great job by the organisers, helpers and participants - Thank you all, X!. We de-briefed, thanked, consoled and celebrated afterwards while eating fruit, then I headed home for the bliss of more lush music, food and a few trippy hours sleep.

The next day I hung out with Michael next door and friends visiting from Cusco (and ultimately the US), Lu Lue, Sarah, Denise and Caitlyn and I shared the love around our `Gringo Estate`, cooking banana crepes with chocolate and drinking quite a weight of coca-coffee. Michael outdid himself with a fine veggie omelette. Sunshine people!!

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