Esquel - Trevelin: 04/12 - 06/12, 08/12, 09/12

Esquel is a lovely little town set in the foothills of the Andes with a beautiful and well-used plaza (public park/green space) and friendly, relaxed people. On the first evening there was a assembly of locals in the plaza speaking out against a gold mine with dubious credentials and Chilean corporate origin. The whole town seemed against this mine. Here and in many small and big towns in Argentina we found a lot of insightful and intelligent social comment in the form of graffiti, a lot of it anti-establishment. Good to see (from my point of view).

We shared a taxi with some permacultural Italians on the trip into town and all joined in observing and consequently condemning a large ugly casino on the main ruta (road) - our fears of another El Calafate were allayed immediately however as a gnarled farmer drove his ancient horse-and-cart right past the casino.

We stayed here for a few days at a nice hostel and enjoyed the health-food store and a yummy night at the parrillada (grill). The photo that says "Esquel" is of Michelle walking through the station of La Trochita, or the Old Patagonian Express as described by Paul Theroux in his 1989 book about travelling through South America by train. It is an old steam train which runs only 20 or 30km as a tourist route.

We took a day trip to Trevelin, a town founded by Welsh settlers in 1865. The Welsh culture still exists there today, including locals speaking Welsh, 2 museums dedicated to its cultural heritage and a few quaint tea-rooms which continue the traditional Welsh afternoon tea. We arrived by bus and explored the town a little, walking on the river and exploring the museum. The photo is of an antique tea-towel describing how Welsh is the oldest European language and comparing English and Welsh words. The long line of letters along the bottom is a place name, because the names of their places are simply the words used to describe it strung together. There was also lots of antique items which were interesting not just because they were Welsh but because of their insight into the older, simpler way of life.

Then we went for afternoon tea. It was expensive, but with perfectly crafted cakes, slices and scones. Mmmm, sugary goodness with a gallon of quality tea. Well, maybe 1/3 of a gallon. We enjoyed it a lot, but I think it was a bit much for our wheat and dairy sensitive stomachs. A nice town - quaint definitely the most apt word.