From El Calafate we jumped on the rather large and expensive bandwagon heading to the Perito Moreno Glacier. We snaked past the gigantic Lake Argentino and into the valley of the river 
that feeds it, through awesome Antartic Beech forest (not Nothofagus moorei) to views of a beautiful lake valley adjoining a phenomenally huge glacier. The glacier is one of the only left in the world that is not receding, and it creeps forward at a rate of up to 2m per day on its collision course with the peninsula from which we viewed it. Apparently it often provides spectacular scenes of large chunks of ice breaking from its 75m high wall and booming into the water below, but on our day not much.
that feeds it, through awesome Antartic Beech forest (not Nothofagus moorei) to views of a beautiful lake valley adjoining a phenomenally huge glacier. The glacier is one of the only left in the world that is not receding, and it creeps forward at a rate of up to 2m per day on its collision course with the peninsula from which we viewed it. Apparently it often provides spectacular scenes of large chunks of ice breaking from its 75m high wall and booming into the water below, but on our day not much.We explored a network of stairs and viewing platforms set into the forested hillside while it snowed lightly, and tried to get impressive photos to no avail due to a cloudy day. But the weather was fine enough that we could be outside viewing the glacier, and it was a spectacular experience. Personally however I felt that although it was an impressive sight it was quite a zoo-like experience and if I had the choice again would´ve chosen not to go.
And next to Fitzroy. The other popular section of Los Glaciares NP is accessible from El Chalten. On 01/12 we embarked upon a generally uphill climb into the park, through hills smattered with Nothofagus forest. We were not long walking and in a section of forest when we heard some rapping. Well as it turns out it wasn´t Capapas, but a Magellanic Woodpecker. This large pecker had a striking red head... Hmmm. The photo isn´t that great but still cool to see it. 
It snowed lightly as we walked through beautiful heathlands of little lagoons, twisted Beeches and rocks, all the while viewing the amazing backdrop of the Fitz Roy Range. Upon approaching the Poicenot campground we passed through an idyllic wood, with trees some 20m high, shafts of sunlight penetrating to the sparse forest floor and illuminating the grey fallen timber. It felt to me that it would be an otherwordly place to live - very evocative.
From Poicenot we could see the main players in the Fitz Roy Range, and set off up the arduous, steep uphill to the crest of Lagoon de Los Tres, where we stopped for lunch. The view of Mount Fitz Roy and its accomplices was spectacular. After eating next to the frozen lake and surrounded by jagged snow-covered peaks, we prepared to return to El Chalten. Before we left I decided to trek an extra 300m to another pass to see the other side of the valley. When I arrived at the almost sheer drop I was struck dumb by the view. An amazingly vibrant blue lake sat at the foot of the range, see photo. Very cool.
The return trek to El Chalten took us almost until dark, so we had some pizza with extra wheat and cheese. Yum :)
The next day Michelle was a little weary from our long and strenuous trek the day before and elected to stay at home, cook, clean, iron, look perfect and shag the postie. So I decided to get some exercise running another track to Lake Torre and its impressive namesake mountain. The terrain was similar and provided some fun rockhopping at times. The tracks were very busy and as such I passed many extranjeros (foreigners) and a few locals too. The track eventually joined a beautiful river valley fringed by tall Nothofagus. I followed the river to the grand Lake Torre, where a hot sun and cool breeze coming off the small glacier made for a lovely lunch setting, soaking up the rays and the views of the mountain. I decided not to journey all the way to the top of the lookout and returned on the same path, this time not running as much but still managing to cut 3hrs off the estimated return walking time. Yesss... I rock.
The Fitzroy area and Torres del Paine are often mentioned in the same breath, and I couldn´t help but compare the two. In Paine the overall scenery was spectacular, wild and felt a bit dangerous, despite the development of the park and refugios, but Fitzroy felt more beautiful and majestic, more homely. Assuredly Paine receives many more visitors, is more expensive and also more controlled. Fitzroy on the other hand operated more like an Australian national park, with free entry, lots of information and recommendations but not rules and most remarkably no refugio$.
It snowed lightly as we walked through beautiful heathlands of little lagoons, twisted Beeches and rocks, all the while viewing the amazing backdrop of the Fitz Roy Range. Upon approaching the Poicenot campground we passed through an idyllic wood, with trees some 20m high, shafts of sunlight penetrating to the sparse forest floor and illuminating the grey fallen timber. It felt to me that it would be an otherwordly place to live - very evocative.
From Poicenot we could see the main players in the Fitz Roy Range, and set off up the arduous, steep uphill to the crest of Lagoon de Los Tres, where we stopped for lunch. The view of Mount Fitz Roy and its accomplices was spectacular. After eating next to the frozen lake and surrounded by jagged snow-covered peaks, we prepared to return to El Chalten. Before we left I decided to trek an extra 300m to another pass to see the other side of the valley. When I arrived at the almost sheer drop I was struck dumb by the view. An amazingly vibrant blue lake sat at the foot of the range, see photo. Very cool.
The return trek to El Chalten took us almost until dark, so we had some pizza with extra wheat and cheese. Yum :)
The next day Michelle was a little weary from our long and strenuous trek the day before and elected to stay at home, cook, clean, iron, look perfect and shag the postie. So I decided to get some exercise running another track to Lake Torre and its impressive namesake mountain. The terrain was similar and provided some fun rockhopping at times. The tracks were very busy and as such I passed many extranjeros (foreigners) and a few locals too. The track eventually joined a beautiful river valley fringed by tall Nothofagus. I followed the river to the grand Lake Torre, where a hot sun and cool breeze coming off the small glacier made for a lovely lunch setting, soaking up the rays and the views of the mountain. I decided not to journey all the way to the top of the lookout and returned on the same path, this time not running as much but still managing to cut 3hrs off the estimated return walking time. Yesss... I rock.
The Fitzroy area and Torres del Paine are often mentioned in the same breath, and I couldn´t help but compare the two. In Paine the overall scenery was spectacular, wild and felt a bit dangerous, despite the development of the park and refugios, but Fitzroy felt more beautiful and majestic, more homely. Assuredly Paine receives many more visitors, is more expensive and also more controlled. Fitzroy on the other hand operated more like an Australian national park, with free entry, lots of information and recommendations but not rules and most remarkably no refugio$.
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