My first day in the poster child town of the famous coffee growing region of Colombia we went to Valley Cocora, a lush landscape of freisians, gums and green, green grass. Sven and I rode the back foot stand and held on to some of the many Jesus-bars of our jeep. Upon arriving we checked the map and set out with Janet into the dairy farms alongside the valley`s river. The world`s tallest palms, the Quindío Wax Palm Tree (Ceroxylon quindiuense) is also a high-altitude adapted palm. They soared above the plantation pine and eucalyptus, but only to an altitude of about 2700m, where it and other palms, ferns, vines and big trees were slowly replaced by simpler cloud forest.
We crossed the river several times on our trek through the luxurious vegetation of overgrown weeds and highland rainforest. After a good hike including wild strawberries, waterfalls and Indian Jones-style bridges we came to a crossroads - Sven and I decided to push on uphill another 5km to Estrella de Aguas, while Janet said she would come part way with us but for us not to wait for her as she might hold us back. OK. So we pushed ahead up the steeeep slopes and were passed by some `mule-trains` - a group of horses or mules with cargo being driven from behind by a herder. In this case they were being pushed mercilessly up a very steep hill. But what were they carrying¿ Gravel and concrete for a refugio high in the hills at Estrella. We continued to a hut overlooking the surrounding valleys and peaks and had a leisurely lunch.
After setting off again we soon discovered Janet ahead of us. She had continued on without stopping and overtaken us! The next 3km or so until we reached an apex was again very steep. The sign told us we were at 3140m and had only 30m to ascend and 2km to walk to our destination. Easy as. Bep buerrh. Uuup, dowwn, uup, dowwn. By the time we reached the gorgeous valley that was Estrella de Aguas I was knackered. Amazingly enough Janet was only a few minutes behind us - a great effort at that altitude. We sat, refuelled and soaked up the mountain energy as the clouds swirled around us.
The journey back was heavy, descending steep slopes isn`t my forte... We saw some cool red birds and an incredible hummingbird with a beak as long as its 10cm body. On the way back down we met up with a herd of more internationals and I managed to stumble back to Cocora, blood sugar falling and consequently hackles rising. What might be my answer to that¿ Exactly; a visit to the House of Jesus.
Jesus Martin Bedoya, that is. I had a locally-grown espresso topped with whipped cream and a slab of rich chocolate cake. And then a hot mocha. Yeeeha! High-beam on. Well this is one of the world`s premier coffee growing regions and I certainly came intending to indulge a little.
After a seriously disturbed night`s sleep I had a great second day in Salento - we did a tour of Tim our hostel owner`s organic coffee farm where he intends to enter the ultra-boutique coffee market. He imparted on us many interestingly caffeinated facts and showed us the coffee process from seed to ready to roast. His farm was indeed biological, growing bananas, citrus and avocados amongst others and his 4 types of coffee. After that Sven and I realised it was Sunday. The Sabbath. We had forgotten!! Better dedicate the day to Jesus once again. At his house we were joined by other Plantation House backpackers for conversation and general excitement. Next we ate delicious local whole trout in Creole salsa and explored the town`s over-priced and generally tacky tourist stores.
In all of Colombia that weekend it was a `dry`weekend - no sale or consumption of alcohol allowed due to the senate elections. But while this rule was slightly bendable depending on your interpreter, the usual racquetry of Colombian weekend nightlife fizzled to a flop and backpackers stay in-house to drink. I had managed to organise a travel party for the southward journey - Janet, myself, Claire from Scotland and Abby and Hannah from London. The next morning we departed early from the lucklustre and schizophrenic Plantation House to head to Ecuador.
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