Back in Santa Marta I fulfilled my backpacker duty in dispensing information about volunteering, the Cranky Croc and the Amazon to various other backpackers. I was also told about lots of other cool places to go and things to do in Colombia - a shame my money is running out. But still, I`ve yet to get to Ecuador. So I boarded the return bus to Bogota armed with all my water and fresh food. The journey soon turned bad though. A cranky stomach (what`s new?), the conflicting temperatures of about 10 degrees (accurate) in the dead of night combined with hot-air blasting up at me from the engine, being next to a stinky toilet all were uncomfortable enough - but the combination of being at the very back seat on Colombia`s poorly maintained bumpy roads with Lead-foot Larries driving (on the accelerator and brake) and the approximately 1 billion ·$&·&% speed bumps we went over made for a rather peaceful 18hrs to be sure (see beanie photo).
On the bus trip I met an Israeli guy and we journey back to the Cranky Croc together - he hadn`t reserved anything so didn`t get a bed though. The following days I did not much but drink great coffee, eat at The Crazy Mongolian and gorge on lush sundaes for all of $3 at Crepes & Waffles. I got a little altitude effected on the second night and couldn`t sleep. On the Sunday I jogged through Cyclovia a little. I also ventured to a cool French crepe place - see photo, note the AUSSIE pencil case underneath a strategically place cat on the female mannequin. I bought a antique packet of condoms - see photo. I hope they weren`t made in the 70`s too... On Monday night I caught up with my Bogota amigos Lino, Juan Carlos and Diana again at our nice cafe. We shared more laughs, drinks and photos - of course it was a fun night - if you`re reading this thanks again guys¡
On Tuesday and Wednesday I hung out with Angelica, a lovely girl whom I had met in Tayrona. We explored the Museum of Modern Art including a social/political comment cartooning exhibition and works by a Colombian artist using a unique method of painting with strong colours and tactile fabrics. Then we watched a great Argentinian arthouse film from the 80`s - although I didn`t understand the dialogue much of the story was easy enough to follow and the acting great. We also explored the botanic garden complete with butterfly enclosure and sections on all different types of Colombian jungle. Many different Australian plants too. On the buses there and back we observed amongst other things (including a frenzy surrounding the Metallica concert) the usual stream of folk getting on the bus to petition the passengers for money. These people often have things to sell - the first thing they do is hand out the things to sell without asking for money. Amazingly enough the passengers generally take them. After that they will invariably launch into a tirade of morality usually in relacion to drugs, jail, depravity, self-salvation and their impossibly poor personal situation. Amazingly enough they never have to pay a fare for this privilege and amazingly enough the passengers tolerate up to two or three of these folk per trip. I actually think that`s a sign of a compassionate population because as my American friend Cynthia and I discussed we knew a similar thing in the States would attract loud vocal derision and (possibly physical) abuse. But then one man was presenting not nick-nacks to sell but impressive performance poetry including sudden loud ejaculations at pedestrians on the street. Pretty cool :)
At the hostel I shared (yet another) sundae with Steve the Canadian, who travels 4 or 5 months a year during the Canadian winter to support his acting habit. A very fun and funny guy - his outstanding quotes being from a fellow Canadian Forestry industry worker speaking about a forestry scientist - "You`d have to go to university a long time to get that stupid". Heh heh heh - no offense uni-heads. Well, maybe a little bit ;) Someone asked him what type of acting he did usually. "Over-acting." :) I also met many fun and interesting people including Erik and Kim from London being ex-pat Australasians. Thanks to Kim for some great graffiti photos from the public university :) The riot police graffiti refers to recent illegal incursions of police into the university to forcibly suppress demonstrations and translates as `Mum will be so happy when I tell her I´ve gotten into university!`. One day I saw some council workers sharpening their chisels on the bitumen.
I also met a couple who`d been robbed on a night bus at gunpoint in southern Colombia. Then more stories started appearing about dangerous and terrible situations other travellers had been in, including one of two backpackers and 6 more locals being fatally injured and 40 more injured in a bus crash in Ecuador. As they lay dying outside the crash local people did not help them but robbed them of all their possesions including identification. Possibly the most gut-wrechingly disgusting story I`ve heard, particularly having happened last month and myself going to Ecuador soon. That`s not human.
So as such I adjusted my plans for no more night buses and decided to head to Salento, a pretty colonial town where the world`s tallest palms grow, alongside some of the finest coffee in the world.
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