The next day I returned to Cusco and the South American Explorers where I caught up with Doris who had filled in at Quito while I was there. There I started researching hikes around Cusco and also in Bolivia and got the low-down on the club. I had the option there for me to stay in Pisac at Maggie`s fairly long-term (and cheaply) but I knew I really needed to find some work if that was to be satisfying for me. I dropped off resumes at English schools, was harassed by professional pains-in-the-arse on the street and explored the magnificent architechture and scenic streetscapes of Cusco - a city sometimes described as the pre-Colombian cultural capital and crossroads of South America. Upon conquest the Spanish also recognised something special there and invested much in converting it to a colonial and Christian beauty. These days (especially now during high season) it is rife with tourists visiting the historic centre, the amazing array of ruinsin the area and hiking in the mountains.
The following day I explored Pisac, an artistic and evocative town under the gaze of Incan ruins on top of stark mountains. The ornate streets and architechture here is clearly influenced by the strong indigenous culture and residents and I really appreciated the lack of Christian symbology and churches. It also is a tourist town, being a main destination in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. On this day the bi-weekly tourist market spread out from the Plaza full of utterly useless crap (and some produce to be sure). I am sure that if all the people involved globally in the tacky tourist market trade were to unite in pooling their resources and willpower they could achieve world peace. I also made chocolate muesli biscuits - yum! Yes, these blog posts will turn slightly domestic for a while... :)
The following day I explored Pisac, an artistic and evocative town under the gaze of Incan ruins on top of stark mountains. The ornate streets and architechture here is clearly influenced by the strong indigenous culture and residents and I really appreciated the lack of Christian symbology and churches. It also is a tourist town, being a main destination in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. On this day the bi-weekly tourist market spread out from the Plaza full of utterly useless crap (and some produce to be sure). I am sure that if all the people involved globally in the tacky tourist market trade were to unite in pooling their resources and willpower they could achieve world peace. I also made chocolate muesli biscuits - yum! Yes, these blog posts will turn slightly domestic for a while... :)
As I`d decided to try to make a bash of staying in Pisac for a while I quickly secured the most essential products - speakers for my MP3 player. I also experienced coffee to rival Arabica in Lima at the never-an-empty-seat gringo haunt Jack´s and explored the San Pedro markets full of local produce of every description and three rows of 10 juice stalls all selling exactly the same juices at exactly the same prices with exactly the same presentation.
On the Wednesday I set off up the nearest mountain to the Pisac Incan ruins - this involved taking a locals` track to avoid a hefty entrance fee. The vegetation was quite interesting , a mix of spiky shrubbery and bromeliads, needle-grass like tussocks and cactii. The ruins came slowly - first, a few Incan agricultural stone terraces, then a gateway and finally the splendidly-designed villages interlinked by pathways and spectacular terraces stepping down the slopes. It was amazing and more than I`d expected because of a comparitive lack of hype surrounding the Pisac site. The surrounding mountains of the Sacred Valley added to the dramatic effects. The ruins were built (and recently extensively reconstructed) into the shape of the landscape and as such were anything but generic reproductions, with steep staircases, battlements, ceremonial & communal spaces and grandiose entranceways. It was a hearty few hours of hiking around the large site, up, down and around the mountain. Lots of tourists joined me up there being a tour day. The height gave great views of the valley, township and my house - the top right photo has a group of house at the cente of the very bottom and my house is the third from the bottom left. Jealous¿ :)
After a steep and slippery short cut down to the main path I passed a person who appeared to be a park official. Soon after I took the short cut down to my corner knowing that he`d probably see me on the decidedly unofficial path - he sure did, and seemed to stay in the one spot watching me descend all the way to the road. This made me a little nervous as I knew he had a mobile for communication and I didn`t have much of a backup plan if confronted regarding my lack of ticket. As I approached the road a police car pulled up directly underneath me... oh ohhh! I just put my head down and hot-footed it around the corner to descend to the road fully expecting the welcoming arms of the law... but nothing came of it. Phew!
On the Friday night I had my first experience with ayahuasca, the hallucinogenic/medicinal plant of indigenous Amazonian shamans throughout the north and west Amazon basin. The ceremony was held by (international) members of the Pisac alternative community in a beautiful domed space in a treed glade close to our house. The shaman thoroughly explained ceremonial protocol, what to expect and possible side effects. He then undertook the long opening rituals including giving thanks to the Earth and Universe, the plant and everyone in attendance. Smoke was used around the ayahuasca liquid and then gestured in the direction of each individual in acknowledgement of their prescence. Finally the imbibing started - each in turn positioning themselves on a mat in front of the altar and shaman, receiving their cup with thoughtfulness and then, having completed their own personal prayers, actions or thoughts, speaking the Quechua words `Kawai Paq` and sculling.
The drink itself wasn`t as bad tasting as I`d thought it would be given the testimonials of users I`d encountered during my extensive research. It was kind of yellow-brown and tasted strongly yeasty but nothing really compared to extract of golden seal and echinacea. I returned to my seat and waited for the circle´s drinking to complete itself - then the lights went out. At first it was complete silence for about 15 minutes. After that the live music started from fellow partakers with guitar, Andean flutes, drums, harps and voice. The primary musicians were the shaman (gentle and heartfelt with a beautiful voice) and another Ayahuasquero (also beautiful but more rhythmical and wicked).
The plant`s active psychotropic ingredient is DMT, a substance naturally produced by the pineal gland during times of irregular consciousness such as near-death experiences, dreamstates, death and birth. Not having consumed any harder drugs in a long time, being pretty fit and having fasted for half the day I was strongly affected. Throughout the experience I attempted to maintain strong and consistent breathing as my mind wandered down infinite paths following psychadelic visions. I came to many useful insights into the nature of humanity and my own life and purpose but to some ridiculous ones also. Essentially though, I was tripping balls.
The respectful and supportive space, the delicately emotional music with it`s simple, loving messages and a consistent return to breath kept me connected to Earth and I only once experience fearful images which soon dispersed. I actually can`t remember a whole lot of my visions as I needed to consistently re-focus my mind to the breath due to the strength of the drug (or medicine as the shamans call it). The medicine in combination with the music at times evoked in me crying, moaning, laughing and all kinds of movement including lots of stretching. Taking ayahuasca often results in vomitting and diahorrhea which I didn`t experience like some of the others present. Lots of vomitting.
Finally I felt back in control of my mind about one hour before the close of ceremony which included much of the same rituals as the opening but also acknowledgement of all the musicians including volunteer singers from the participants. Then came a slow unwinding, debrief and hug session. It had been an astounding experience and very worthwhile - I was energised... and hungry. After returning home to porridge I slept soon after for a few hours then arose again to continue the voyage relaxing and exploring the experience at cafes with recovering friends. But when it came to sleeping that night, I couldn`t. The ayahuasca was working on my digestive system and wouldn`t permit things to move through without extensive massaging, stretching and breathing, essentially to correct posture and unblock stagnant energies. Four hours later I fell into a loggish sleep exhausted.
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